This is a brief introduction to clicker training, explaining the basic concepts simply and concisely.
For a complete clicker training workout have a look at my WEB Special, CLICK HERE....
I will be adding to these pages on a weekly basis, so be sure to check back for each new episode.

So what is a clicker?
A clicker is a child’s toy that trainers have decided to use to reinforce an animal’s behaviour. The clicker is a small metal and plastic device that makes a double clicking sound.
Using a clicker instead of your voice gives us a tool that makes a unique sound that has never been heard before and usually doesn’t have any pre-existing associations. The signal is consistent, and deliverable with precision and from a distance. So use of the clicker allows your dog to learn that whatever behaviour causes a click will be reinforced, useful information to the dog as it predicts the availability of a reinforcer so that the behaviour is likely to be repeated. Behaviour is a function of its consequences. It is also an event marker – the click marks the behaviour as it occurs. The click also marks the end of the behaviour, and you are now ready to start again. Clicker training has another good effect on the more experienced dog, the sound of the first click becomes a context marker, or to put it informally, it tells the dog the training “game” is on and that there is a chance of reinforcement. When the clicks eventually stop, (extinction is also applied) your dog will know that the “game” has finished. What clicker training can also achieve for your dog is a change in motivation, which can result in a confidence boost!

What is Clicker Training?
Clicker Training is all about using positive reinforcement

Instead of stopping the dog from doing the wrong things, we are going to teach the dog what is safe to do. Why should the dog know what we want? Living in a modern world brings with it dangers that are unknown to the newly reared puppy. Isn’t it our duty as responsible owners to educate “mans best friend”? How to greet visitors, walk on a loose lead, sit at the kerb, be touched all over, like grooming, sit on its bed and not on the furniture if that is your rule, and above all produce a dog that is well behaved and a joy to live with!
Clicker training is no different, sets of rules are applied to an animal’s behaviour (just like learning to drive a car), with resulting consequences, which will either increase behaviour or decrease behaviour. These methods are based on Operant conditioning. It uses a conditioned reinforcer (clicker) to support the primary reinforcer (whatever your dog will work for) rather than just the primary reinforcer. But before we jump straight in and start clicker training our best friend it may be better if we start to understand a few basic rules!

There is no procedure more important in dog training than reinforcement. It is worth taking the time to describe some basic rules for using reinforcement effectively:

1. Define the target behaviour.
   Its best to literally write down a brief desrciption of the behaviour or set of behaviours that would qualify for reinforcement (i.e. a behaviour that if increased would benefit the dog and owner). In puppies you could aim for lengthening their attention span, for example.


2. Choose the appropriate reinforcers.
   Before you can reinforce target behaviour, you have to choose one or more reinforcers. The most important thing to remember is never to use negative reinforcers if positive reinforcers are available. The second thing to remember is that positive reinforcers are always available. Conditioned reinforcers such as a clicker paired with some tasty food, or a clicker paired with a chew tug game will be just the job for increasing that desired behaviour.


3. Make the reinforcement immediate and certain (click and treat).
   Using a clicker allows you to mark the behaviour just as it happens. The more closely that reinforcement follows the target behaviour the more likely it is to be effective. Any delay in delivering the signal may result in the wrong behaviours being reinforced. For example, puppy sits and you click and treat. If you delay the chances are that the puppy has stood up, scratched, barked, or otherwise added some unwanted behaviour. By certain I refer to the fact that the more likely the target behaviour is to result in reinforcement the more rapidly the behaviour is to increase in strength. In other words the best results are usually obtained when reinforcement is almost certain to occur when the target behaviour occurs, but is unlikely to occur otherwise.


4. Observe the results
   Observing the results is an essential part of the training process. Learning to perceive the difference that makes the difference. Learning to observe your dog, when to reinforce or not, and when to raise your criteria will become easier with time and experience. As will, most importantly, having the patience to allow your dog to work through these procedures so that it will heighten your dog’s performance and improve his creativity for learning.

Learning to perceive the difference that makes the difference is known as the “art of reinforcement” and the only way of achieving fantastic results is to go out and do it, as reading about it doesn’t give the practice that you require.
I would suggest finding a training partner who can observe your performance and give you general guidance with your timing and movement around your dog.
Try clicking one of your family with their movements, the goal behaviour for example would be to get the clicks right on target. Click somebody walking, clicking when his or her left foot hits the ground, and then try the right foot. Have a friend bounce a ball and you have to click just as the ball hits the ground, then click when the ball is half way up from the bounce, and see how many you can get on target. Try throwing the ball onto a wall some distance from you and try to click just as the ball hits the wall, this will help for distance work, as getting the timing right is crucial.
Stephen G King Copywrite 2008

Once the children go back to school after their summer vacations there seems to be an increase in dog behaviour problems reported each year. You could say that during those holidays’ periods, dogs do get a lot of attention from the immediate family with lots of family trips and lots of excitement, then the relationship really cools down as the kids go back to school and us adults go back to work and of course its hard for the dog to understand that situation.

To remedy this situation, as prevention is better than cure, there are a couple of easy things to do:

1, Use an enrichment program to keep them busy

2, Train your dog using a Home Training Program ™

Start to take the Home Training Program ™ training sessions out and about making sure that you have the right equipment.

Three essential bits of kit for outside training:

1, A dog training lead specifically designed for the purpose, click here….

2, Cotton Web Training Leads, click here….

3, If need be use a head collar, click here….

For recall practice the cotton web training leads are essential.

Of course you could take your dog to a training class to further reinforce what you are doing in the Home Training Program ™.

For APDT courses in your area click here

Is it, dog owners or dogs that are to blame?

Depending what case that you are referring to, but it seems that the dog always gets it in the neck every time. Education is a wonderful thing they say, well why not have a “Dog Owning Licence” where potential owners learn about what ALL dogs are about, such as they bark, growl and bite quite naturally as well as hunt, fish and shoot!
When you have mastered/ passed your theory and practical you are then allowed to own a certain breed of dog. Those people that require a Guarding type breed should progress onto further education that allows the potential owner to fully grasp the responsibility for such types of breed. Then and only then can it be said that we have responsible dog ownership. I believe that prevention is better than cure and if people were made to take responsibility for the dogs’ actions then perhaps they would think twice about buying a powerful large breed dog?

I also wonder if there will be some “knee-jerk” reaction from the Government about the Dangerous Dogs Act? The Home Secretary can add any of the breeds to the existing 1991 Dangerous Dog Act without further recourse to parliament.

Existing legislation does require the owners to take responsibility, and are such that the penalties imposed if found guilty are not heavy enough (except for the dog of course!) and in the case of the two pub dogs the DDA would not apply as the act only covers “a public place”. The roof of the pub could not be considered as a place where the public may be allowed. The old 1871 act would have to be applied of which I suspect would carry a low maximum penalty. Of course you could argue that a punishment that is delivered months after the event will not have the desired deterrent?

On a personnel note, I believe that doing away with the old dog licence has had the effect of demeaning the responsibility of dog ownership and therefore need to return to some form of “dog ownership licence”; like a driving licence, and charge a proper fee for it and of course all the education that needs to go with it!
For a balanced perspective go to: Guardian

Stephen G King © 2006

If your dog goes missing and is lost, your dog is likely to be picked up by
a local authority dog warden, an animal welfare or rescue organisation or the police. These people can read your dog’s collar and telephone you to let you know that your dog’s safe or if you have your dog micro chipped, they can contact you using the Kennel Club’s Petlog database, 365 days of the year.
Other ways to help find your pet are:
• Telephoning Petlog immediately if your dog is micro chipped on 0870 606 6751;
• Searching the area where your dog likes his walks and play.
• Leaving your details and a picture/description of your pet with as many people as possible, especially those delivering letters, newspapers and milk
• Advertising in the ‘Lost’ section of local newspapers – read the ‘Found’ adverts too
• Calling the dog warden, local vet or police station
• Visiting nearby animal welfare and rescue centres. Ensure you look into each enclosure
• Calling radio stations that announce lost and found pets
• Visiting the website: www.doglost.co.uk
• Putting up posters in pet shops, vets, supermarkets, restaurants, local stores and post offices
• Keeping an up-to-date photograph of your pet in this booklet
• Not restricting your search to just one small area. Dogs can stray for long distances.

1992 No. 901 DOGS CONTROL OF DOGS
The Control of Dogs Order 1992 (Made 19th March 1992 Coming into force 1st April 1992)

The Minister of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food, in relation to England, the Secretary of State for Scotland in relation to Scotland, and the Secretary of State for Wales in relation to Wales, in exercise of the powers conferred on them by sections 13(2) and (3) and 72 of the Animal Health Act 1981[1] and of all other powers enabling them in that behalf, hereby make the following Order:
Title and commencement

1. This Order may be cited as the Control of Dogs Order 1992 and shall come into force on 1st April 1992.
Wearing of collars by dogs 2.—(1) Subject to paragraph (2) below, every dog while in a highway or in a place of public resort shall wear a collar with the name and address of the owner inscribed on the collar or on a plate or badge attached to it. (2) Paragraph (1) above shall not apply to— (a) Any pack of hounds, (b) Any dog while being used for sporting purposes, (c) Any dog while being used for the capture or destruction of vermin, (d) Any dog while being used for the driving or tending of cattle or sheep, (e) Any dog while being used on official duties by a member of Her Majesty’s Armed Forces or Her Majesty’s Customs and Excise or the police force for any area, (f) Any dog while being used in emergency rescue work, or (g) Any dog registered with the Guide Dogs for the Blind Association.

Offences

3. The owner of a dog or the person in charge of a dog who, without lawful authority or excuse, proof of which shall lie on him, causes or permits the dog to be in a highway or in a place of public resort not wearing a collar as prescribed in article 2(1) above shall be guilty of an offence against the Animal Health Act 1981.
Seizure of dogs 4. Any dog in respect of which an offence is being committed against this Order may be seized and treated as a stray dog under section 3 of the Dogs Act 1906[2] or under section 149 of the Environmental Protection Act 1990.
Enforcement 5. —(1) This Order shall be executed and enforced by the officers of a local authority (and not by the police force for any area).

(2) In this article "local authority" and "officer" have the same meaning as in section 149 of the Environmental Protection Act 1990.

Revocations
6. The Orders specified in the Schedule to this Order are hereby revoked to the extent specified in column 3 of that Schedule.

The Control of Dogs Order 1992 says that all dogs must wear a collar and an identity tag in a public place. The identity tag must show the name and address of the owner. You can be fined up to £5,000 for this offence. Your dog must still wear an identity tag even if it is micro chipped.

Question:
We have a 3 month old Jack Russell pup who steadfastly refuses to walk on a lead. He’ll walk along happily with his harness on and lead trailing, but as soon as someone picks up the lead he falls flat to the ground on his stomach and refuses to budge. We’ve tried coaxing verbally, with titbits (latter wrong I’m assured) but ultimately he ends up being partially dragged and partially walked at least on the outward leg of the walk. When he knows he’s on his way pack home, he’ll walk quite happily. We’ve tried numerous sources but all seem to deal with the opposite problem – pulling on the lead! Any ideas out there?
Answer:My advice would be to keep using the harness as this usually gives the dog more confidence, especially those shy types. He is probably very scared to go out into the big wide world. Also when he sees the lead he knows that he has to face his fears again! As a separate exercise put the lead on, give him a treat and take it off again. Repeat this inside the house at least 10 times a day. Then leave the lead on a bit longer before taking it off again until he is happy to walk around the house with the lead.
Please do not tighten the lead, reward any movement forward. Do not bribe!
You progress very slowly up the garden path and back inside the house is defiantly a must and then progress outside for walks that are short and sweet. If your puppy shows fear from the environment, stand still do not retreat but continually reward your puppy at least 20 to 30 times until puppy overcomes its fear and feels more confident. Stay positive as this is “your puppy’s early learning” and for a video that works visit this link for more information on puppy training
: crosskeysbooks.com

A highly nutritious training treat made from human quality ingredients.

1 lb Liver [preferably Lambs]
1 lb Flaked oats
1 Eggs
2 Cloves Garlic/ or 2 tsps garlic puree.

Put all the ingredients into a blender until the mixture is smooth,
Pour into greased 12-inch square baking tin and place in the oven [Gas Mark 4] for around 30-40 minutes.
Leave to cool and cut into bite size pieces. (1/4-inch Square)
It can be frozen into individual bags [enough for a couple of weeks of training]

My dog’s favourite training treat!
Stephen G King

Using all human ingredients..
5oz canned tuna
5oz milled oats (rolled oats? What I would eat for breakfast oats)
2 tablespoons cottage cheese.
Half an apple, grated – any red version, green too sharp, usually
Half a large carrot, grated
Spices from the spice rack – ground ginger, ground garlic, Mediterranean herbs – a good sprinkling of each (teaspoon- ish) half pint of water

Instructions:
put them all in a big bowl and mix thoroughly, for about a minute.
Then tip the mass onto a 12in square baking sheet, lined with kitchen foil (greased) . Use the back of a spoon and spread the mix all over the baking tray. It should cover the whole thing. These will be thin treats, not like big chewy bars! Cook in top of oven for 20 minutes at 392 degrees F. Top should be golden brown.

When cooked leave to cool, then cut into one-quarter inch squares. These treats flex, they are not solid.

I have tried them in the freezer, they do freeze, and once left for a good while to defrost, Missy was just as interested in them!
I have also changed the tuna for minced chicken, and for salmon. The salmon isn’t quite as popular.

Kindly sent in by Pat Elliott who owns missy a Batersea dog. Read about Missy…

Question: I have heard that clicker training has been highly successful although I have not used it to train my dogs so far. What is the best way to learn?

Answer: Well depending on how you learn best, it could be a DVD or Books?
Or you could use a combination of both. Crosskeysbooks.com are selling a web special with big savings, here is their link: Crosskeysbooks.com
Probably the best way to learn is to have a combination of theory and practical learning experiences such a joining a clicker training club, try this link for your local clicker trainer: apdt.co.uk

Questions: Hi My puppy is 5 months old, he always barks at the hoover, but other than that very rarely barks? any idea of how to stop this? I tried putting him outside every time he does it but he just comes back in and does the same!

Answer: Reducing the sensitivity to the Hoover, we need to turn this negative response into a positive response and here is how I would do it. A small training program could go like this: 1, click and reward the dog in the Hoovers presence with the Hoover turned off Density of reinforcement at least 50 click and rewards at each training session, making sure that the dog gets something special, like chicken or liver. (Do this before the dog is fed) 2, Turn the Hoover on repeat previous 3, Turn on Hoover and hold the appliance without moving it, repeat previous. 4, Turn on Hoover, hold appliance and gently move it about with clicks and rewards. Also it might be worth checking that the dog diet that your are feeding has high quality proteins such as Chicken or Lamb meat, avoid animal derivatives and cereals. Try and remove any junk food from the diet including treats etc. Had the same problem my self with a border collie, this program solved it. Try Clicker Cue Cards for a beginners training program on clicker training go to crosskeysbooks.com